Congratulations on adopting your new Persian.

You will be the envy of all your friends for the new addition to your family of a new Persian kitty, one that is beautiful, has a wonderful personality and great health.  Your kitty should star her new life off to a good start at her new home.

When you arrive home, everything should be already be in place at the location you decide he kitten should stay until she gets use to the new wallpaper.  You should place the kitten in the litter box several time a day so that she will e use to its location.  Keep in mind that the litter box should be left in the same place at all times.  She will get use to its location and will go looking for it one she is  acclimated to her new house and allowed to visit the rest of the house.  Do not move the litter box to different places.  It would be best to keep two -- one upstairs and one downstairs.  Remember, one litter box per cat, plus one.

Your new kitty will be used to the company of other cats in our household. Once you arrive home, introducing a kitten or cat to its new home properly is very important. The best way that I have found to acclimate your kitty to its new home, is to keep her in a "safe place" for now, like a bathroom or utility room with everything that she needs - fresh water, litter box, food at feeding time, and a warm place to sleep.  It is important not to place the food and water bowls next to the litter box.  You wouldn't want to eat where you potty -- would you?  Do not let her roam that rest of the house until she is fully adjusted to your home and any other pets that might already be there.  The kitty needs time to feel secure before you let her venture into the other parts of the house.  Some kittens may be shy and sensitive, others will make themselves right at home.  She will let you know when she is ready to explore -- take your clues from the kitty.

Do you have other pets in the household?  If so, the best way for them to get to know each other is through a closed door.  Cats are "scent animals and get use to the other pet's smells even when their yes are closed and before they see them.

You can introduce your new kitty to the other pets by giving the kitty a towel, blanket or, bed that the other animals have slept on.  You can also pet your other animals with a blanket or, cloth then rub the kitty with the now "scented" blanket or cloth.  It normally takes about five days for the new kitty to adjust to its new environment and around two weeks to one month for an adult.  Just keep in mind that the pets living in your home before the new addition arrived have to get use to the new kitty too, so be patient with the introductions.  

They will make friends by playing "patty cake" under the door  They already know another pet is in the house by the "smell" and will be nosy.  Using this method will keep the new kitty from being overwhelmed by an older cat or dog.  Once you feel that they are ready, open the door an inch or two and let them see each other.  If there is no hissing or growling, close the door and try again later.  Another method is to put the new kitty in a carrier and let the others investigate the carrier.  DO NOT let the kitty out at this time.  After you have followed this method a few times, you can take the new kitty out of the carrier and hold her, letting them get to know each other this way. It is very important that you supervise their visit and be sure if you notice any aggression, that you handle it immediately by putting the new kitty back in the carrier and placing her back in her "safe zone".  

Do you have dogs?  It is important that you watch the interaction between them.  Please do not allow the dog to play with the kitten roughly.  Despite the fact that you feel they are only playing or, if the new kitty is the instigator, a small kitten can be easily hurt by a dog.  Be sure that you lavish extra attention and love during the introduction process.  It make take a little while for them to become accustomed to each other, but they will learn to live in harmony and become friends.

Adjusting to a new environment is quire stressful, especially for a young kitten and their immune system can slump as a result.  There are few that may or may things that may or may not happen in the first weeks after the kitten has arrived at her new home.  I have adopted the kitten to you in good health and I will always be a source of information and support if you need it.  After a few weeks with you, there a few several things that might happen so, I want to make you aware of them.

Weepy Eyes:  It is not uncommon for a new kitten to react to the different smells -- flora and fauna at your home.  It important to keep the kittens' eyes wiped and clean.  You can treat them with a simple contact solution (normal saline for sensitive eyes), Clear Eyes or Natural Tears.  You can find any of these products at your drug store.  Keep a watch on the kittens' eyes and if any of discharge starts to look like a cloudy mucus, then you will need to take the kitten to your vet.

Diarrhea:  This is another problem that might occur.  It can last from 24 - 36 hours, though it can last longer.  If your kitten is eating well, alert and playful, he should be fine in no time.  Sometimes stress from a change of water or diet will cause this problem to occur.  It is not unusual for a cat to have diarrhea or vomit during its lifetime.  This is nature's way of taking care of stomach upsets.  However, it should never be allowed to last very long, cats and kittens can become dehydrated very quickly and will need a vet's attention quickly.  A way to tell if your cat or kitten is becoming dehydrated is to pull the skin up carefully on the back, if it raises more than normal, the cat or kittens is becoming or has become dehydrated and will need fluids right away.

Eating and Drinking:  A cat will get most of its moisture from his diet (wet canned food) and might not drink much water.  This is normal for a cat on a wet food diet.  Just monitor its intake and drinking habits to avoid any problems.  A cat's appetite will fluctuate from day to day, season to season.  When it is hot cat's will tend to eat less and will sometimes skip a meal or two..  Don't let yourself worry too much, this is usually normal.

Excerpts from Mystic Bells - Free Kitten Care Manual

Molly Bar 

Your new lovey has been raised on a high quality dry food and wet food.  Our dry food of choice is Royal Canin Baby Cat, Royal Canin Kitten, plus one-fourth of a small can of Fancy Feast or ProPlan wet food until the kitten reaches one-year of age.  When the babies are really to be introduced to "real" food, they are given small amounts of wet Royal Canin Baby Cat until they graduate to the Royal Canin Kitten and can eat it dry.  When the kitty reaches one-year of age, she should be changed over to Royal Canin Persian 30, plus one-half a small can of Fancy Feast or ProPlan wet food.  We free feed our kittens and cats.  Persians tend to be nibblers so, it is best to leave dry food down all the time for cats that are on different eating schedules, they will be able to eat when they want to. 

     Fancy Feast:  Fancy Feast has a large number of gourmet flavors that are grain free.  The food is very agreeable to cats and reasonably priced.  The thing that I would consider a "negative" - if you consider it a "negative" is that this food contains mean by-products.  I wouldn't consider not using Fancy Feast for this reason.  Turkey & Giblets Feast, Tender Liver & Chicken Feast, Gourmet Chicken Feast, Tender Beef Feast, Gourmet Chicken Feast, Tender Beef & Chicken Feast, Beef & Liver Feast (these flavors are meat based and have low carbohydrates, stay away from the other flavors.

     ProPlan: Chicken and Liver Entrée - both in adult and kitten variations are the only flavors that I have found that are grain free.  Note that the kitten varieties has rice in it, but in a small quantity as its quite a way down the ingredients list.  It's a little higher in protein, than the adult variation.

      Canned food contains 80% water and along with access to drinking water, cats obtain more than 90% of their total water intake from the diet, whereas on dry food, 96% of the total water intake is obtained by drinking.

     You should be aware of researches done in the UK and the US recently that shows that there is a link between cats given too much fish in their diets or fed on too much canned food with fish having problems with over active thyroid, so we do not recommend feeding fish or too much canned food.

     After eating or sleeping the new kitten should be placed in the litter box.  Kittens are just "furry babies" and might have an accident every now and then. Do not be reprimanded her for making a "mistake",  If there is an "accident" the kitten should be placed gently back in the litter box.  You should never, ever rub your kittens nose in it. They learn by repetition.  You should brag on the kitten every time you see her in the litter box and remind her that this is her potty place.  Cats love praise.  I use "World's Best Cat Litter" and do not recommend that you change litters.  If the litter contained in the box falls below three inches, you should add more litter. The litter box should be kept clean and scooped out as soon as you see a "deposit".  Cats have a very sensitive nose and do not like cat box odor any more than you do.  I recommend that you completely clean out the litter box every week and add new litter.  

      DO NOT give cats people milk!  It will cause an upset stomach and you will end up with diarrhea or vomiting.  I know that you do not want to have to wash a kitty butt every time you turn around, so I would definitely avoid "people milk".  If you feel like the kitty needs a treat, you can give her a small amount of kitty milk.  You can find the kitten milk at any pet food store.  

     Please DO NOT feed your cat people food. Once she has tasted people food, a bit of your ice cream, a sip of milk, a nibble of your peanut butter sandwich, a tidbit of popcorn, you will have a large, furry pest stuck to you like glue every time you or, anyone else eats.  I couldn't think of anything worse than to have company and end up with your fuzzy one sitting in the middle of somebody's  plate.  Need I say more!

     I will send you and your kitty home with a "Kitten Kit" which will contain the following items:  (a) blanket; (b) toys; (c) sample food bag; (d) litter wipes; (e) litter deodorizer -- a special gift to the new mom and dad from me.  If the kitten is being picked up, I will include a small bag of World's Best Cat Litter.  WBC is what the kitty will be use to so, I DO NOT recommend changing to another litter at this time.  The kitty may not like it and will refuse to use the litter box.  

     What, I recommend that you do is to keep your kitty on the food and, using the liter that I send home with you for at least three weeks.  You should provide clean water at all times.  I recommend that you start your kitten out on bottled or purified/filtered water.  Occasionally, a change in water will cause digestive upsets, diarrhea and/or vomiting, so all food, water and should be accomplished slowly. 

Excerpts from Mystic Bells - Free Kitten Care Manual

Molly Barr

You will need to "baby proof" your home as you would for a people baby.  Never leave small objects such as staples, paper clips, sharp knives, sewing baskets laying around for you kitten or cat to investigate.  Cats are a nosey group and can actually pull pins out of a pin cushion.  

     You will need to keep your refrigerator, washer and dryer lids closed.  If they are left open it can lead to a dangerous situation and possibly death to your cat if the machines were turned on or, you kitten gets locked into a cold refrigerator.  

     Another thing to be aware of is electric wires -- to prevent burns or electrocution you can cover the wires with pipe insulation or, wire cover strips that you can purchase at any hardware store to screw to your baseboards to contain all the wires.  

     My cats and/or kittens are adopted as IN-DOOR CATS ONLY!  They do love to sit in the windows and watch birds in the feeder, the squirrels chase each other in the trees and the leaves float around.   Please keep your windows closed at all times if there are no screens installed.  If you leave your windows open without screens, you are asking for trouble -- your kitty can jump out.   Persians have been known to jump 4 to 5 feet, so even leaving the top window open without a screen can create a dangerous situation.  Also, be sure to advise your family and guests not to stand and talk with the door open.  Cats are fast and can easily make an exhibit pass you in no time.  Just tell them "in or out".  

     You will need to watch out after a young kitten playing on the floor.  They can easily get underfoot -- so be sure and warn grandma and grandpa to watch their step.  Also be careful about stepping backwards as they can easily be sitting behind you.  I have a term that I use when I have kittens on the ground. it is called the "kitten shuffle".  Please be sure that there isn't a cat under you as you sit down on the sofa -- this can be hazardous for their health and yours if you sit on one.

     Please tell all of your family members to remember to, "DO NOT LEAVE THE TOILET LID UP".  Kittens have been known to drown by jumping on the open lid and falling in.  Also watch out for grown cats that love to sleep on anything off the floor -- there is nothing like a completely soaked and frightened cat streaking around the house reeking havoc to your furniture,  carpet and anything else that isn't suppose to get wet.  It is amazing how much water a Persian coat can hold.  This is not to  mention trying to find a soppy, wet cat or coach her from under a piece of furniture that is too heavy for you to move.  Once you have your hands on her, you will need to calm her down for a while by rubbing as much water off her as you can. Once she has calmed down, a good soapy shampoo and blow dry will fix everything.  Another precaution, "DO NOT LEAVE WATER IN THE TUB" and leave it unattended.  

     The following are more precautions that you need to be aware of:  (a) burning candles; (b) hot stoves; (c) counter tops, dishes and glasses that can be knocked off; (d) chemicals; (e) dishwasher powder; (f) iron; (g) bleach, Lysol and Pine Sol; (h) chocolate; (i) tea bags; (j) sharp lids to cans; (k) plastic bags; (l) Venetian blind cords; (m) string; (n) tingle for Christmas trees.  

     Persians have large paws and can easily pick up small objects and put them in their mouths.  This can be extremely dangerous should she pick up a  piece of yarn; a straight pin, a needle or, any other small sharp object. So be cautious when sewing or knitting.

     Kittens love to play with anything that rattles.  The favorite around here are balls with bells inside, practice golf balls, soft balls and tiny mice.  Just about anything will keep them entertained for hours, even a small cardboard box or a paper grocery bag that they can play peep-eye in.  

     Now, about collars - NEVER put a collar on your cat -- they can easily get tangled up on something and choke.   

     You can discourage your kitty from any bad habits by spraying her with water.  Also a firm "NO" will work.  Cats do know the word "NO", they just don't want you to know they do.  You will have to be consistent in your training.  Cats learn by repetition.  

Excerpts from Mystic Bells -Free  Kitten Care Manual

Molly Barr

    The very first thing that you will want to do is to make sure that your husband and your children have been watered and fed and that they have something to entertain themselves with while you are busy.  A better suggestion would be to treat them to a movie.  Also, make sure that you have at least 3-4 hours of uninterrupted time set aside for this adventure.  You will not want to be interrupted while you are preparing for your Persian's bath.  

    Let's assume that you have gathered together all the necessary items for this grooming session.  Right!!  Check over your list again.  There is nothing like finding out that you need something when you have a soppy wet Persian in the sink and no one at home to help you.  Get the picture?

      I chose to do my grooming on a table near the sink.  Since bathing is sometimes a lengthy process, especially if you are grooming for show.  I find that a sink the height of my kitchen sink works the best.  Saves those people backs.  The one I have is a plastic mop sink - cheap and it works - set into a cabinet my husband made.  I use a plastic tablecloth - the kind you can get at Wal-Mart's for about $2.50 - that I use to cover the table. 

     I put a carrier with the grill inside, in the middle of the table with a folded towel tucked under the front edge. Placing the cat in front of the carrier and between the dryers will keep the cat contained while you do you thing. The towel is placed under the front of the carrier and this is where I will place the cat while I am working.  The purpose of the carrier is just in case either one of us gets tired and/or needs a break and also keeps your cat contained in the area.  The grill in the bottom of the carrier is great for getting the cat off the bottom of the carrier so that it will dry more easily.  You can order these grills from a pet supply house at the same time you order your carrier.  If you cannot find them, they are easy to make from a piece of hardware cloth (the kind with the small, square holes in it).  Just cut a piece with wire cutters the dimensions of the inside of your carrier plus one-half to two extra inches.  Fold down the extra inches so that it will fit into your carrier, you now have a grill for your cat to stand on.

     Next, I will form a semi-circle, by putting my large cat dryer on the right of the carrier, and on the left another side another large cat dryer - facing each other.  If you do not have a large, industrial dryer, you can use a people hair dryer and the one that I have found that works best is the Yellow Bird.  It can be found at most beauty supply houses that sell to the public.  To hold the people hair dryer, I use one of those cheap baskets from the Dollar Store -  the one with all the square holes in it - like a shopping cart at Wal-Mart.  I cut out about 4 squares in the middle of the short end of the basket.  Or, cut just enough squares out to hold the nozzle of your people hair dryer.  Using a basket like this will free up your hands to comb while your cat is drying. 

     Then I arrange my combs, nail clippers and the rest of the grooming supplies (of course, shampoos, other towels, etc. will be at the sink) where they are within easy reach.  

          (a) The very first thing that you will want to do is to clip those claws - front and back. 

          (b) Now, wipe your cat's eyes with a dry tissue or makeup pad.  Making sure that you wipe from the outside corner in.  Dry eyes are easier to deal with. 

         (c) Moisten one of your makeup pads with the eye cleaner, I use Renu to wipe away any stains that you find around the eyes.  Try to find the makeup pads that are quilted.  If you are using Eye Envy, you will not need very much.  This stuff goes a long way.  Be sure to use one clean pad per eye.  When you see no stains on the pad that eye is clean.  Move on to the other.  Once you have removed the loose stains around the eyes of your cat, dry the hair around the eye with a clean pad.  www.eyeenvy.com 

     Note:   There are other eye cleaners out there but beware that they may contain bleach.  You can locate other eye cleaners through the web, pet supply houses, and even your local pharmacy. 

     If you have not been diligent about cleaning your Persian's eyes on a daily basis, you may still notice staining under the eyes.  If so, you will need to resume cleaning the eyes on a daily basis until all the stains are gone.  This is the importance of daily cleaning.

     If you are having trouble with those dark stains on a light colored cat, you can use Opticlear (which you can purchase from a reliable supply pet house) or if all else fails - Bausch & Lomb's Allergy eye drops for sensitive eyes, which can be purchased from the drug store.  These products will keep the eyes clean because the liquid in the eyes is prevented from turning brown.  Just because your cat may be a dark color, doesn’t mean there are no stains hiding in that dark hair.  Never use a people eye drop that will “get the red” out.  It is irritating to your cat’s eyes. 

     Note:  When the weather changes or the winds blow (hot or cold - it doesn't matter) dirt, allergens and pollutants will sometimes cause the cat's eyes to become irritated.  When and if that does happen, the liquid in the eyes often goes from clear to yellowish brown.  It is important to use Gentocin with Durafilm (ONLY if the cat does NOT have an eye ulcer).  Otherwise, use plain Gentocin without Durafilm.  You can order this from your veterinarian.  The color of the tears from the eyes will go from brown to clear within a few days after using Gentocin.  DO NOT over medicate.  Once the eye liquid goes back to clear, begin using your regular eye drops again.  This way your cat will not build up immunity to stronger medications.

            (d) Now, clean the ears.  Moisten one of the makeup pads with mineral oil and wipe each ear out.  Be gentle when wiping out your cat’s ears, you can irritate the sensitive tissue.  You can use a Q-tip to get into the creases, but do not try to any lower into the ear canal than you can see.  If you notice any dark brownish goo in the ear, you might want to have your cat checked for ear mites.   

            (e) Now that you have the claws, eyes and ears taking care of.  The next thing that you will want to do is to make sure that they are no knots or mats in your cat's hair.  Gently comb deep into the hair to make sure that you do not miss any of these.  Use a Teflon comb (never use a pin brush) to preserve the coat and prevent tangles and split ends.  Do need to do this every day.  You will want to make it part of your routine.  You do not want to cut out these mats or knots with scissors.  You cat's skin is very thin and will pull up with the hair making it extremely easy to cut.  Try to gently pull a little of your cat's hair, look at the roots and see how the skin comes with it - see what I mean.

     When checking for mats or knots, look behind the ears, between the toes, under the chin, the tummy, in the pantaloons and especially under the arms and between the back legs.  These are the places that will mat up rather easily.  When you are combing between the legs, especially on a male, be extra careful - make short and easy strokes with the comb.  The boys are really sensitive about their "business".  Make sure that when you are combing between the legs, cup your fingers over their business.  If you ever pull the hair between a males legs, you might never get the chance to comb there again.  The same applies to the females.  

     If you make it a habit during your daily combing sessions to keep this area free of knots and mats, it will make your life a whole lot easier.  Combing this area both the males and females from the time they are kittens until they are adults, even when there are no visible mats or knots, keeps your cat accustomed to groomed in this area. Regular daily grooming seasons is also a good bonding time.  

     You DO NOT want to wet your cat if there are any knots or mats in the hair.  Have you ever wet a cotton ball?  If not, try it right now on a wet cotton ball and then try to tear it apart.  Almost impossible, right!  Well, when you wet a Persian that has knots or mats in its hair; it is just like wetting a cotton ball.  It will tighten up and become extremely painful for your cat and almost impossible to get out without professional help.  

     You DO NOT want your cat to mat up at all.  These mats are very uncomfortable for your cat, as well as hurt.  Combing your cat on a daily or every other day basis should prevent any from forming.  

        You are now ready to go on to the BATH.   

     Okay - you have done all of your pre-bath preparation.  Nails clipped, eyes and ears cleaned.  You have combed your cat and there are no mats or knots in your it's hair.  You have gathered everything together and it is within reach.  Check again!

     Prior to sitting your cat in the tub or sink be sure that you have the temperature of the water just right so that you do not burn your cat.   You will want the water warm - like a people baby's bath.  You have placed the bath mat into the sink - oops forgot that one. Go get the bath mat.  The reason for the mat is that it gives your cat a sense of stability - something to grip onto - no slipping and sliding around.   I use a Rubbermaid sink mat.  

     You will want to put a drop Artificial Tears Ointment in each eye - this is a petrolatum Ophthalmic Ointment sterile ocular lubricant.  It forms a protective film over the ocular surface, lubricates the eye & protects the eye from drying, soaps, etc. - this can be found at the pet suppliers or at the pharmacy.   

          (a) Heavy Degreaser - Goop   If your cat's hair appears unusually greasy or is separating when combed, you might want to use Goop first.  This will also remove the oil in your cat's hair helping to eliminate the separating and also will help prevent matting.  You will need a 15 oz. tub for a large cat and a large towel to sit your cat on.  You will apply the Goop to dry hair.  When Gooping be careful not to get any in the cat's eyes.  Do not Goop the face.  You will start with a small amount behind the ears, and on the hair around the neck (ruff), working this end with your fingers.  Next, apply the Goop on the body, over and under, making sure that you work the Goop in well.  Finally, apply to the base of the tail and work through to the end.   Do not put Goop on a female or males genitalia.  

      Once you have Gooped the entire body - let the cat sit a few minutes - making sure that the cat does not lick itself.  Put the stopper in the sink and work in a little warm water.  Work the Goop completely through the hair.  When the sink is about half full, scoop the warm Goop water over your cat.  When you are sure that you have the cat fully saturated, making sure that every hair on its body has been coated with the Goop water, start to rinse out.  Continue rinsing the cat with the warm water until you are satisfied that the hair is squeaky clean.  The key is rinse, rinse, rinse and when you feel that you have all of the Goop water out, rinse, rinse, rinse, some more.   

     Warning:  Although I have never had one of my cats to have a reaction to this product.  Some cats or kittens may have an allergic reaction to Goop.  Put a small amount of Goop on the cat and observe their skin and if the flesh around the ears gets too pink or the kitten appears to be in distress rinse the Goop off immediately and soap them to rid of the Goop's residue.  

          (b) Orvis Paste:  This is also a good degreaser that is used by horse show people.  You can find this at any pet supply house or feed and grain store.  This works great too.  I have never had one of my cats to react to this product.  You can find Orvis Paste at any feed and grain store, Jeffers Pet Supply or Revival Pet Supply.  If you use the Orvis Paste,

www.jefferspet.com/ssc/ or www.revivalanimal.com/

          (c)    Light Degreaser.  You will now use a surfactant.  Depending upon the color of your cat’s coat, many people use dishwashing liquid.  This is where the Dawn Original, Joy or Ivory Liquid comes in.  Not only will the dishwashing liquid help remove the remainder of the oil from your cat's coat and it will help get the hair wet completely down to the skin.  Ivory for whites, Dawn or Joy for the other colors.  A Persian’s hair is so long, it is difficult to wet down to the skin that is the reason for the surfactant. 

     I mix a tablespoon of the dish washing liquid in a quart of warm water and gently pour this over the cat rubbing with the other hand.  Or, as an alternative, you can mix the Dawn or Joy in the sink as if you were going to wash dishes.  Do not apply the dish washing liquid directly on the cat, as they are difficult to rinse out.  You can either pour the mixture over the cat or dip it from the sink.  Whichever, is easiest for you.

          (d) Ivory Liquid is what I use on my whites.  This can be poured directly over the cat without diluting.  Gently massage into the hair.  

          (e) Dawn Original, Joy or Ivory Liquid are not tearless shampoos - so be careful an avoid getting it in the cat's eyes.  If I am not grooming for show, I will use Johnson's Baby Shampoo on the face and around the eye area.  I use the one with the detangler in it.  Use only a couple of drops on a wet cloth.  If you are at all hesitate about using Dawn, Joy or Ivory Liquid on your cat's face for fear of getting it into the eyes, this would be a good idea until you perfect your bathing skills.  

          (f) Cover every area, starting with the back of the ears, going under the chin, throughout the entire back, tummy, legs, rear (everything!) with the sudsy water.  Gently massage into your cat’s hair - they will love it.

          (g) When you come to the head, I will put a small amount on a wash cloth creating a little suds.  Carefully wipe the surfactant shampoo across the back of the cat's head (but do not put onto the facial area - remember to use the baby shampoo on the top of the head, around the eyes and face.    

          (h) To rinse the side of the head by the ears, hold the ear down with your fingers and rinse over the back of the ear and the side of the head, holding your sprayer close so as to not spray the water in the cat's face.  Dry the cat's face with a small hand towel, making sure that the nose and eyes remain dry.  This will keep your cat calm in the sink.  Persians do not like their faces wet - they have a fear of drowning because of their flat faces.    

          (i) To rinse the top of the head, hold the head up and back to rinse the forehead.  You can cup your right hand over the eye area in front of the ears by placing your thumb on one side in front of one ear and the rest of your fingers on the other side in front of that ear.  You will be able to push the water away with your hand to protect the eyes and nose. 

          (j) You will need to continue to rinse the entire body until the all the soap is removed.  Remember to rinse, rinse and rinse again. 

          (k) Now, you are ready for the shampoo.  What shampoo you will use, will depend upon the color of your cat. 

          (l) Blue Shampoo for the Whites.  Blue shampoos are used for whitening on a white cats.   Use a blue based (not yellow, orange or green) shampoo.  Make sure to look at the color of the shampoo; it should be blue not purple or green/blue.  Purple will make your cat gray and dull and green/blue will make your cat appear to look yellow and dingy.  A good one is Clairol Shimmering Lights. 

     You will want to use 1/2 shampoo and 1/2 warm water.  If your Persian has dry ends, I have known of this type shampoo will turn your cat lavender if the shampoo is used full strength.  Its pretty, but you cat is suppose to be white.  Apply this shampoo to your wet cat adding more water and gently massage into the hair.  You will want to get a good lather going.  Leave the shampoo on long enough to get the suds up the whole cat.  Make sure that you have entire cat covered (except the face).  Begin at the back of the ears and under the chin, covering the entire back and tail, tummy, legs, rear (all parts of the rear) with this blue shampoo.  You can follow up with Infusium 23 Shampoo and the Infusium Leave-In Conditioner.  This shampoo and conditioner will help hydrate your cat's hair and eliminate split ends.    

         (l) Other Colors.  You can use most any type of cat shampoo for the other colors (unless you are showing).  It is just a matter of preference.  Try a few different ones and continue to use whatever works best for your cat's hair. 

      For show cats, depending on the cat's needs we use Eqyss Premier Pet Shampoo for a nice coat, Eqyss Micro-Tek Shampoo for irritated skin, or Hydrosurge Spearmint Fresh Shampoo for brilliant color and shine. You can also use Clairol Herbal Essences - Natural Volume Texturizing Shampoo with Chrysanthemum, Orange Blossom and Caraway.  Or, any gentle people shampoo.  It is said that you are not a show person if you don't have at least 50 shampoos on hand.  Experiment with the shampoos on your cat until you find just the right one that makes the cat's coat a perfect show coat.

     Again we mix the shampoo with water and lather it into the coat as we pour it on. Work the shampoo deep into the coat and rinse thoroughly. Remember, that you cannot rinse too much.  You will want the water to run clear with no evidence of soap bubbles.  As a final rinse to remove the soap residue, I will mix 1/4 cup of white vinegar with a quart of warm water.  If you use anything other than Infusium Leave-In Conditioner, follow up with a small amount of conditioner or cream rinse.  I will mix about 1/8th of a teaspoon to a quart of warm water and pour over the cat, working the conditioner in.   You don’t need much conditioner.  If you use too much, your Persian will have a heavy look to its hair.  You want it to float and move with them when they are dry.  On our show cats, we use Eqyss Cloud Nine Cream Rinse or Eqyss Avocado Mist (which by the way is great for people too!).  Again rinse, and rinse some more thoroughly.  Remember, that your cat will almost immediately begin to lick its hair and so rinsing the coat free of as much residual shampoo and conditioner as possible is very important.  Also, leaving any shampoo residue on your cat’s hair will cause the skin to flake, and it will look as though it has dandruff.

      Finally, you'll want to squeeze out excess water from the coat. It will most likely surprise you how much water you'll squeeze out!  Run your hands down the back and belly firmly and down the legs and tail to remove any left over water. Wrap your cat up in a towel to carry them to a drying surface.  I use one of those car chammy's to finish drying with - it will suck most of the water off your cat and it won’t take them long to dry.  

         Drying Your Cat.  Prior to drying, comb through your cat's hair.  It will aid in drying your cat faster.  I stay right with my cats during this whole project but there will come a time when you need a potty break, coffee break or a back break. This where the carrier in the middle comes in.  

There are some amazing professional dryers and drying cages out there, but they are very costly.  You can purchase a small to medium dog crate - the size will depend upon how big your cat is - it works great for a drying cage.  Make sure that the dryer you choose to use has a warm, or cold setting and adjustable hair flow.  Never put your cat in a carrier to dry unless you are going stay right there to make sure that the temperature is staying on the slightly warm or cool side.  Please be aware that a dryer can malfunction and toast your cat. 

We suggest putting your cat in a wire cage if they are difficult to handle at this point attaching the blow dryer to the small end opening.  The hair can flow through the cage and you can brush after your cat is dry.  If you are using a drying cage with wire all the way around, you can wrap the cage with a sheet making sure to tuck the sheet under the bottom to hold the air in.  Your cat will dry faster this way and contain all the hair floaties.

I hand-comb and dry all my cats.  When drying your cat, start in one area and dry that one first, lifting the hair with a comb and blow drying the roots first.  Your cat will dry faster this way.  I start with the head first and work my way to the back and tummy.  You lift the hair and comb against the grain (combing the hair backward).  This will lift the hair and make your cat a fluff ball.  If your cat is tired and slightly disagrees with you about the whole process, just move to another area and begin drying there.  You will be able to tell if your cat is becoming tired because they will get fussy and want down.  Do not let them go at this point.  They are like small children at times and can bluff you into getting what they want.  You are in command of this project not them.  Be firm, but gentle and place your hand on your cat's back and gently press down make them sit so that you can continue.  Just tell them NO in a firm voice while pressing on their back.  When they do sit back down, brag on what a good kitty they are.  Just be consistent with you requests and they will eventually get the point and you will never have a problem with them again.  If your cat continues to fuss, then put them in the carrier for a few minutes and then come back.

NEVER leave you cat unattended (potty breaks, coffee breaks are okay) while they are being dried in a carrier.  The ventilation holes in the carrier are not enough to allow the air to escape if you were to place your cat in the carrier (like the one you use to take to the vet) and use an air flow that is too warm or hot.  Always err on the side of caution and NEVER use warm, or hot air to dry your cat in a carrier.  As I mentioned before, the wire bottom you constructed for you carrier will allow the air to flow under the cat’s tummy enabling it to dry faster.

Teaching your cat to be cooperative takes a little time and having your hands free makes the process go much quicker.  If your cat is calm and cooperative, you can blow dry and brush at the same time. By lifting the hair with the comb and drying the roots first you will find that the drying process will be a lot shorter.  Remember, to dry the coat thoroughly, especially for kittens.  Kittens can lose body heat rapidly and get very sick. Do not hold the dryer too close or in one spot for too long when drying your cat. Their skin can get too hot and burn easily.  Make sure that your cat is "dry to the bone".  Cats chill easily and can get the sniffles if they are not kept warm while bathing.   

You are done - take a bath, get dressed, get a cup of coffee and relax until your gang comes back from their outing.

        Don't forget to give your cat a smooch and a treat when you are done, you want him to look forward to the next bath. 

 ©Tooliebouce Persians

Brenda J. Caudle